The night before I
depart, I spend a few hours looking over maps and my schedule. The first week
is going to be spent in a part of Scotland that is unfamiliar – the phrase I’ll
hear, and begin to use, is ‘underrated.’ The Borders conjures up ideas of
conflict – I am sure that 7.84 did a play about it in the 1990s at Tramway.
Since my main guide to the Scottish landscape, a battered copy of Julian Cope’s
Modern Antiquarian, seems not to have
a section dedicated to Peebles and Galashiels, I am stepping into the unknown.
My intention for this
week is to travel light. Unfortunately, I am breaking my travels at Falkland
for a weekend of camping. My rucksack will contain my tent but, realising that
I have plotted a couple of long walks (long by my lazy fitness levels), I dump
the sleeping bag for a cotton slip. I take a single book – Nietzsche’s Birth of Tragedy. I’ve been meaning to
read it for years, it’s slim enough and doesn’t have all those distracting
proclamations about God’s mortality that I don’t understand. In retrospect, a
water bottle would have been a good idea.
The Giants in the
Forest are an intriguing project: they have been placed around Scotland in
collaboration with local groups, designed by Vision Mechanics – a company I
know as one of the imaginative contemporary puppet masters that Scotland is
breeding. I have an outline of their purpose – once in place, they become both
a focus for local activity and a nice surprise for unsuspecting walkers. My own
purpose, a blogger travelling between the sites, is less clear. I am part of
the documentation, at least. I’m winding myself up to bring something more
dramatic to my responses.
I’m more used to
cities, and theatres, and art galleries.
I relate the locations to pop up versions of an art space – although
most of the Giants were put in place last year and have already seen a summer
and winter, I am focused on them as sculptures. Going out into the countryside,
I am worrying about long walks and how well my choice of suit will hold up in
what appears to be the height of summer. Having decided that I would risk
hitching for certain sections of the journey, I’ve gone with a natty pin
stripe. It does clash with the red rucksack.
I check the schedule.
I am looking at the first three days out, ignoring later excursions – my brain
gets confused at the complexity of different transports over the month. It’s
Bowhill first, and a long journey. It starts on the train, then goes to a
series of buses. Finally, I am going to walk from Selkirk to the Estate. I am
hoping that the final stage, down to the Giants, isn’t going to be a problem
for my smart shoes.
I have a look at the
introduction of The Birth. This copy
has some useless notes, and seems to clarify the entire idea in two pages. Its
vision of nature – wild, untamed and probably hostile – doesn’t cheer me up.
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