I am about half way
through my mission. So far, I have taken trains and buses, cycled and hitched
across large swathes of Scotland, even dipping briefly into England (Berwick
–upon-Tweed, admittedly a location that has had its share of border conflicts and
now best known as the answer in quizzes to ‘what English football team plays in
the Scottish league?’), made a guest appearance at T in the Park and spent a
day off being driven deep into East Lothian. I spent a weekend teaching the
next generation of critics at the National Festival of Youth Theatre in
Glenrothes, which has the largest pound shop I have ever seen, and have been
without phone signal and Internet for days at a time. That last is oddly disturbing and liberating.
But the purpose of my
mission has been both the drive to my enthusiasm and has provided highlights. I
am seeking out the Giants in the Forest, a series of sculptures placed around
Scotland. Sometimes they are remote – one destination was the Bowhill Estate in
the Borders, a good hour from the nearest village – sometimes to hand – The
Edinburgh Giants are five minutes walk from the office of The List. And
although they are all based around a similar design, each set (they come in
threes) has its own distinctive identity.
Looking back over my
written and recorded responses so far, I can see themes emerging. The first
week was spent in the Borders – dropping down to Berwick, then hooking across
to Galashiels, then Peebles before rising back to Edinburgh. My writing is full
of timid attempts to capture the thrill of travelling outside of the city.
There’s a similar problem in the day trip to see the Holyrood Giants: I am
worried that my thoughts are unremarkable, a trite collection of obvious
tourist comments.
I recognise how
predictable, how mediated my responses are. The first day, an extract from my
original introduction, makes vague comments about how ‘escaping the city’
encourages a ‘more open, gentle state of mind.’ Nature is probably going to be
described as beautiful and calming if I read on. Then I start contrasting my
usual urban anxiety against the spiritual warmth of the countryside.
Then there are the
photographs I took in Edinburgh. A vista that takes in Arthur’s Seat and an old
graveyard: a panorama across Holyrood. They are generic, and even as I click
the shutter, I sigh at the realisation that what I am seeing is never going to
be captured on film, or in words.
I am spreading out my
recollections in front of me. I flicker between styles: here’s a stab at beat
poetry, this one is a parody of a travel article from a broadsheet paper. Every
so often, I fall back on my standards; acting like everything is an exercise in
aesthetics. I am on an adventure, but I struggling to find the way to relate it
back to my critical writing.
Let’s start with a
cliché, then. You can take the man out of the city, but you can’t take the city
out of the man.
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